Tuesday, February 1, 2011

CI'S CHEESE SOFT PRETZELS

CHEESE PRETZELS

Makes 12. From Baking Illustrated.

A 12-inch skillet is the best pan for blanching the pretzels. The pan is wide enough to fit 3 or 4 pretzels at a time, and the shallow sides make it easy to add and remove the pretzels from the water. Any wide pot or Dutch oven may be substituted if a skillet is not handy. Coarse salt is best (as well as traditional), but if it is unavailable, kosher salt may be substituted. The pretzels are best eaten the day they are baked but will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for 2 days or in the freezer, wrapped well, for 2 weeks.

1	teaspoon instant yeast
1/4	cup honey
1	teaspoon salt
3	cups (16 1/2 ounces) bread flour , plus more for dusting the work surface
1	cup warm water (about 110 degrees)
3	tablespoons baking soda
1	cup (4 ounces) shredded cheddar, Monterey Jack, or pepperjack cheese

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Mix together the yeast, honey, salt, flour, and water in the bowl of a standing mixer. Using the dough hook, knead at low speed until a smooth, elastic ball of dough forms (the dough will be quite stiff), 5 to 7 minutes.
2. Place the dough in a lightly oiled large bowl and turn the dough to coat with the oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at warm room temperature until doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Deflate the dough, cover, and let rise until nearly doubled in size again, 30 to 40 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 450 degrees. Pour 6 cups water into a 12-inch skillet, add the baking soda, stir, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray generously wih vegetable cooking spray. Set aside.
4. Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces (about 2 ounces each). Roll each piece into a 20-inch-long, 1/2-inch-wide rope. Shape each rope into a pretzel and place on the prepared baking sheet.
5. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, gently place the pretzels into boiling water, top-side down (you should be able to fit 3 or 4 pretzels at a time), for 30 seconds. Using tongs, carefully flip the pretzels over and boil for 30 seconds longer. Remove the pretzels with a slotted spoon, drain well, and place back onto the prepared baking sheet (because the pretzels will not rise much in the oven, you should be able to fit all 12 pretzels on one baking sheet). Sprinkle with shredded cheese and bake for 12 to 16 minutes, or until the pretzels are well-browned, turning the baking sheet halfway through the baking time. Remove the pretzels from the baking sheet to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

TECHNIQUE

Shaping Pretzels

Twist the top end of the overlapping end over the bottom end and bring the ends down to form a pretzel shape. Lightly moisten the ends with water and firmly press the ends onto the dough at about the 5 o'clock position and the 7 o' clock position.

Working one at a time, pick the ends of the 20-inch dough rope and cross them over to form an oval with about 1 1/2 inches of the ends overlapping.

America’s Test Kitchen is a 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated magazines and is the workday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand how and why they work and arrive at the best version. We also test kitchen equipment and supermarket ingredients in search of brands that offer the best value and performance. You can watch us work by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (www.americastestkitchen.com) on public television.

CI'S MIGAS

MIGAS

Serves 4. From The Best 30-Minute Recipe.

Serve with our One-Minute Salsa or your favorite store-bought brand.

8	large eggs
2	ounces baked tortilla chips , broken into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
	Salt and ground black pepper
2	tablespoons unsalted butter
1	small red onion , minced
1	red bell pepper , cored and chopped fine
3	garlic cloves , minced
1	jalapeño chile , cored and minced
3/4	cup shredded pepper Jack cheese
2	tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves

INSTRUCTIONS

1. COMBINE EGG MIXTURE: Mix eggs, tortilla chips, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and pinch of black pepper together and set aside.
2. COOK VEGETABLES: Melt butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and bell pepper and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Stir in garlic and jalapeño and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
3. ADD EGG MIXTURE AND COOK: Reduce heat to medium. Add egg mixture and cook, using rubber spatula to push mixture back and forth until curds begin to form. Continue to cook, lifting and folding curds from side to side, until they clump in single mound but are still very moist, about 3 minutes.
4. FINISH AND SEASON: Off heat, gently fold in cheese and cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

CI'S HEARTY LENTIL SOUP

HEARTY LENTIL SOUP

makes about 2 quarts, serving 4 to 6. Published January 1, 2004.

Lentils du Puy, sometimes called French green lentils, are our first choice for this recipe, but brown, black, or regular green lentils are fine, too. Note that cooking times will vary depending on the type of lentils used. Lentils lose flavor with age, and because most packaged lentils do not have expiration dates, try to buy them from a store that specializes in natural foods and grains. Before use, rinse and then carefully sort through the lentils to remove small stones and pebbles. The soup can be made in advance. After adding the vinegar in step 2, cool the soup to room temperature and refrigerate it in an airtight container for up to 2 days. To serve, heat it over medium-low until hot, then stir in the parsley.

3	slices bacon (about 3 ounces), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1	large onion , chopped fine (about 1 1/2 cups)
2	medium carrots , peeled and chopped medium (about 1 cup)
3	medium cloves garlic , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 tablespoon)
	1 can (14 1/2 ounces) diced tomatoes , drained
1	bay leaf
1	teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1	cup lentils (7 ounces), rinsed and picked over
1	teaspoon table salt
	ground black pepper
1/2	cup dry white wine
4 1/2	cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 1/2	cups water
1 1/2	teaspoons balsamic vinegar
3	tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Fry bacon in large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until fat is rendered and bacon is crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Add onion and carrots; cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes, bay leaf, and thyme; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in lentils, salt, and pepper to taste; cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until vegetables are softened and lentils have darkened, 8 to 10 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to high, add wine, and bring to simmer. Add chicken broth and water; bring to boil, cover partially, and reduce heat to low. Simmer until lentils are tender but still hold their shape, 30 to 35 minutes; discard bay leaf.
2. Puree 3 cups soup in blender until smooth, then return to pot; stir in vinegar and heat soup over medium-low until hot, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons parsley and serve, garnishing each bowl with some of remaining parsley.

CI'S HEARTY MINESTRONE SOUP

HEARTY MINESTRONE

Serves 6 to 8. Published January 1, 2010. From Cook's Illustrated.

If you are pressed for time you can “quick-brine” your beans. In step 1, combine the salt, water, and beans in a large Dutch oven and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let stand 1 hour. Drain and rinse the beans and proceed with the recipe. We prefer cannellini beans, but navy or great Northern beans can be used. We prefer pancetta, but bacon can be used. To make this soup vegetarian, substitute vegetable broth for chicken broth and 2 teaspoons of olive oil for the pancetta. Parmesan rind is added for flavor, but can be replaced with a 2-inch chunk of the cheese. In order for the starch from the beans to thicken the soup, it is important to maintain a vigorous simmer in step 3. The soup can be cooled, covered tightly, and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat it gently and add basil just before serving.

	table salt
1/2	pound dried cannellini beans (about 1 cup), rinsed and picked over (see note)
1	tablespoon extra virgin olive oil , plus extra for serving
3	ounces pancetta , cut into 1/4-inch pieces (see note)
2	medium celery ribs , cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 3/4 cup)
1	medium carrot , peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 3/4 cup)
2	small onions , peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 1/2 cups)
1	medium zucchini , trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
2	medium garlic cloves , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
1/2	small head green cabbage , halved, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 2 cups) (see step by step below)
1/8 - 1/4	teaspoon red pepper flakes
8	cups water
2	cups low-sodium chicken broth
1	piece Parmesan cheese rind , about 5 by 2 inches (see note)
1	bay leaf
1 1/2	cups V8 juice
1/2	cup chopped fresh basil leaves
	ground black pepper
	grated Parmesan cheese , for serving

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Dissolve 1 1/2 tablespoons salt in 2 quarts cold water in large bowl or container. Add beans and soak at room temperature for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours. Drain and rinse well.
2. Heat oil and pancetta in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pancetta is lightly browned and fat has rendered, 3 to 5 minutes. Add celery, carrot, onions, and zucchini; cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 5 to 9 minutes. Stir in garlic, cabbage, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and red pepper flakes; continue to cook until cabbage starts to wilt, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer vegetables to rimmed baking sheet and set aside.
3. Add soaked beans, water, broth, Parmesan rind, and bay leaf to now-empty Dutch oven and bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat and vigorously simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans are fully tender and liquid begins to thicken, 45 to 60 minutes.
4. Add reserved vegetables and V8 juice to pot; cook until vegetables are soft, about 15 minutes. Discard bay leaf and Parmesan rind, stir in chopped basil, and season with salt and pepper. Serve with olive oil and grated Parmesan.

Making Thicker, More Flavorful Minestrone

1. BRINE BEANS
Brine beans overnight in 2 quarts water and 1 1/2 tablespoons salt.

2. SAUTÉ VEGETABLES
Sauté vegetables and remove them before cooking beans to preserve their texture.

3. COOK BEANS
Cook beans at vigorous simmer to release their starch which will act as thickener.

4. ADD VEGETABLES
Return vegetables to pot, along with V8 juice and chopped fresh basil leaves.

Have a V8
Though completely nontraditional, V8 juice trumped all the other types of tomato products we tried in our soup. It added just the right amount of bright tomato taste with an even bigger wallop of vegetable flavor—the real goal of our recipe. We’re surprised the Italians didn’t think of it first.

VEGGIE POWER

To Thicken Soup, Boil Your Beans
For our Hearty Minestrone recipe, we cook the dried beans in chicken broth and water before combining them with the other ingredients. We noticed that by the time the beans became tender, the cooking liquid in some batches of beans had a nice thick consistency, while others were thin and watery. Could this be due to how much heat was under the pot?

EXPERIMENT
To find out, we cooked two pots of beans (both soaked first overnight in a brine, according to our recipe)—one at a bare simmer and the second pot at a vigorous simmer—until the beans in each became tender. We then drained each batch of cooking liquid into a measuring cup, adding water to the vigorously simmered batch until it was level with the gently simmered cooking liquid.

RESULTS
Even with water added to compensate for evaporation, the cooking liquid from the boiled beans was significantly thicker than the more gently simmered liquid.

EXPLANATION
A higher cooking temperature causes more starch to be released from beans. As they simmer, their coats may look smooth and unbroken, but starches are continually being released into the water through a section of their seed coat called the “hilum.” These starches absorb the hot liquid and eventually burst, releasing the molecule amylose, which acts as a thickener. So the next time you want a thicker bean soup, remember: The more vigorous the simmer, the more starches that burst and the more viscous the broth.

STEP-BY-STEP

Cutting Cabbage into Pieces
To cut a head of cabbage into evenly sized pieces for recipes such as Hearty Minestrone, use the following method.

1. Cut the cabbage into quarters, then cut away the hard piece of core attached to each quarter.

2. Separate the cored cabbage into stacks of leaves and flatten them by pressing lightly with your hands.

3. Using a chef’s knife, cut each stack lengthwise into 1/2-inch-wide strips.

4. Gather the strips into bundles and cut them crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces.

CI'S BEEF BARLEY SOUP

BEEF BARLEY SOUP

Serves 6 to 8. From Cover and Bake.

The barley, cooked over a long period of time, adds body as well as a nutty flavor to the soup. This soup is often seasoned with dill; simply replace the parsley with 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill.

TIME: 7 to 8 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high

3	pounds beef chuck roast , trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (see illustrations below)
	Salt and ground black pepper
2	tablespoons vegetable oil
2	medium onions , minced
2	medium carrots , peeled and chopped fine
1/2	cup dry red wine
2	(14.5-ounce) cans diced tomatoes
1	teaspoon dried thyme
4	cups low-sodium beef broth
4	cups low-sodium chicken broth
2/3	cup pearl barley
1/4	cup minced fresh parsley leaves

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Dry the beef thoroughly with paper towels, then season generously with salt and pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add half of the meat to the skillet and cook, without stirring, until well browned on one side, about 4 minutes. Stir the meat and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until completely browned, 4 to 6 minutes longer. Transfer it to a slow cooker. Return the skillet to medium-high heat and heat 2 more teaspoons oil until just smoking. Brown the remaining beef and transfer it to the slow cooker.
2. Return the skillet to medium heat and heat the remaining 2 teaspoons oil until shimmering. Add the onions, carrots, and ¼ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the wine, scraping the browned bits off the skillet bottom, and cook until almost dry, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and the thyme; bring to a boil. Pour into the slow cooker.
3. Stir the beef and chicken broths and the barley into the slow cooker. Cover and cook, on either low or high, until the beef is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high. Before serving, stir in the parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste.

STEP-BY-STEP

Cutting Stew Meat For stew meat pieces that are cut from the right part of the animal and regularly shaped, we suggest buying a boneless roast and cutting the meat yourself. A 3-pound roast will yield about 2 1/2 pounds of beef, perfect for searing in two batches.

1. Pull apart the roast at its major seams (delineated by lines of fat and silver skin). Use a knife as necessary.

2. With a knife, trim off excess fat and silver skin.

3. Cut the meat into cubes or chunks as directed in specific recipes.

Sunday, January 30, 2011

CI'S QUICK PANTRY MANHATTEN CLAM CHOWDER

QUICK PANTRY MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER

Serves 8. From The Best Soups and Stews.

This variation uses a total of three bottle of clam juice. two bottles are used to supplement the juice from the canned clams in place of broth from fresh clams. This soup will hold for two days. Reheat over a low flame, being sure not to boil the chowder, which will toughen the clams.

5	cans clams (6 1/2 ounces each), choped, juice drained and reserved
2	slices thick-cut bacon (about 2 ounces), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1	large Spanish onion , chopped small
1	small red bell pepper , stemmed, seeded, and chopped small
1	medium carrot , chopped small
1	stalk celery , chopped small
4	medium garlic cloves , minced
1	teaspoon dried oregano
1/2	cup dry white wine
3	(8-ounce) bottles clam juice
1 1/4	pounds Yukon Gold potatoes , peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1	large bay leaf
2	(14.5-ounce) cans diced tomatoes
	Salt and ground black pepper
2	tablespoons fresh parsley leaves , chopped

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Fry the bacon in the empty pot over medium-low heat until the fat renders and the bacon crisps, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the onion, pepper, carrot, and celery, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and oregano and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute.
2. Add the wine and raise heat to high. Boil the wine until it reduces by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the reserved canned clam juices, 3 bottles clam juice, potatoes, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the potatoes are almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a wooden spoon, smash a few potatoes against the side of the pot. Simmer to release potato starch, about 2 minutes.
4. Add the tomatoes, bring back to a simmer, and cook for 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in the reserved chopped clams and season with salt and pepper to taste; discard the bay leaf. (Chowder can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Warm over low heat until hot.) Stir in parsley and ladle the chowder into individual bowls. Serve immediately.

TECHNIQUE

Scrubbing Clams

Use a soft brush, sometimes sold in kitchen shops as a vegetable brush, to scrub away any bits of sand trapped in the shell.

TECHNIQUE

Releasing Starch from Potatoes

Once the potatoes are tender, use the back of a wooden spoon to press some of the potatoes against the side of the pot. This released more starch and helps thicken the chowder.

STEP-BY-STEP

Preparing the Steamed Clams

1. Steam clams until just open, at right, rather than completely open, as shown at left.

2. Open clams with a paring knife, holding over a bowl to catch juices.

3. Sever the muscle under the clam and remove it from the shell.

CI'S BROCCOLI CHEESE SOUP

BROCCOLI-CHEESE SOUP

Serves 6 to 8. Published March 1, 2011. From Cook's Illustrated.

To make a vegetarian version of this soup, substitute vegetable broth for the chicken broth.

2	tablespoons unsalted butter
2	pounds broccoli , florets roughly chopped into 1-inch pieces, stems trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
1	medium onion , roughly chopped (about 1 cup)
2	medium garlic cloves , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
1 1/2	teaspoons dry mustard powder
	pinch cayenne pepper
	Table salt
3–4	cups water
1/4	teaspoon baking soda
2	cups low-sodium chicken broth (see note)
2	ounces baby spinach (2 loosely packed cups)
3	ounces sharp cheddar cheese , shredded (3/4 cup)
1 1/2	ounces Parmesan cheese , grated fine (about 3/4 cup), plus extra for serving
	Ground black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Heat butter in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When foaming subsides, add broccoli, onion, garlic, dry mustard, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 6 minutes. Add 1 cup water and baking soda. Bring to simmer, cover, and cook until broccoli is very soft, about 20 minutes, stirring once during cooking.
2. Add broth and 2 cups water and increase heat to medium-high. When mixture begins to simmer, stir in spinach and cook until wilted, about 1 minute. Transfer half of soup to blender, add cheddar and Parmesan, and process until smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer soup to medium bowl and repeat with remaining soup. Return soup to Dutch oven, place over medium heat and bring to simmer. Adjust consistency of soup with up to 1 cup water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve, passing extra Parmesan separately.