CI'S CLASSIC BROWNIES

CLASSIC BROWNIES

Published March 1, 2004.  

Why this recipe works:

WHEN DEVELOPING AN OLD-FASHIONED, CHEWY CHOCOLATE BROWNIE RECIPE, WE FOUND THAT SUCCESS LAY IN THE DETAILS. SUBSTITUTING CAKE FLOUR FOR ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR MADE OUR BROWNIES TENDER, WITH A DELICATE CHEW. PLENTY OF UNSWEETENED CHOCOLATE GAVE OUR BROWNIE RECIPE GREAT FLAVOR WITHOUT MAKING THEM OVERLY SWEET. DETERMINING THE PROPER BAKING TIME WAS ALSO IMPORTANT: TOO SHORT A TIME IN THE OVEN, AND THE BROWNIES WERE GUMMY; TOO LONG, AND THEY DRIED OUT. FINALLY, TOASTING THE NUTS BEFORE SPRINKLING THEM OVER...(more)

MAKES TWENTY-FOUR 2-INCH-SQUARE BROWNIES

Be sure to test for doneness before removing the brownies from the oven. If underbaked (the toothpick has batter clinging to it), the texture of the brownies will be dense and gummy; if overbaked (the toothpick comes out completely clean), the brownies will be dry and cakey.

INGREDIENTS

1	cup pecans or walnuts (4 ounces), chopped medium (optional)
1 1/4	cups plain cake flour (5 ounces)
1/2	teaspoon table salt
3/4	teaspoon baking powder
6	ounces unsweetened chocolate , chopped fine
12	tablespoons unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), cut into six 1-inch pieces
2 1/4	cups sugar (15 3/4 ounces)
4	large eggs
1	tablespoon vanilla extract

INSTRUCTIONS

1. 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 325 degrees. Cut 18-inch length foil and fold lengthwise to 8-inch width. Fit foil into length of 13- by 9-inch baking dish, pushing it into corners and up sides of pan; allow excess to overhang pan edges. Cut 14-inch length foil and, if using extra-wide foil, fold lengthwise to 12-inch width; fit into width of baking pan in same manner, perpendicular to first sheet. Spray foil-lined pan with nonstick cooking spray.
2. 2. If using nuts, spread nuts evenly on rimmed baking sheet and toast in oven until fragrant, 5 to 8 minutes. Set aside to cool.
3. 3. Whisk to combine flour, salt, and baking powder in medium bowl; set aside.
4. 4. Melt chocolate and butter in large heatproof bowl set over saucepan of almost-simmering water, stirring occasionally, until smooth. (Alternatively, in microwave, heat butter and chocolate in large microwave-safe bowl on high for 45 seconds, then stir and heat for 30 seconds more. Stir again, and, if necessary, repeat in 15-second increments; do not let chocolate burn.) When chocolate mixture is completely smooth, remove bowl from saucepan and gradually whisk in sugar. Add eggs one at time, whisking after each addition until thoroughly combined. Whisk in vanilla. Add flour mixture in three additions, folding with rubber spatula until batter is completely smooth and homogeneous.
5. 5. Transfer batter to prepared pan; using spatula, spread batter into corners of pan and smooth surface. Sprinkle toasted nuts (if using) evenly over batter and bake until toothpick or wooden skewer inserted into center of brownies comes out with few moist crumbs attached, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool on wire rack to room temperature, about 2 hours, then remove brownies from pan by lifting foil overhang. Cut brownies into 2-inch squares and serve. (Store leftovers in airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days.)

TECHNIQUE

LINING AND LIFTING

•  1. Line the baking pan with two sheets of foil placed perpendicular.
•  2. Use the foil handles to lift the cooked brownies or bar cookies from the pan.

CI'S LIGHTER CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS

LIGHTER CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS

Serves 6. Published September 1, 2009. From Cook's Illustrated.

We strongly recommend buttermilk for the dumplings, but it’s acceptable to substitute ½ cup plain yogurt thinned with ¼ cup milk. If you want to include white meat (and don’t mind losing a bit of flavor in the process), replace 2 chicken thighs with 2 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 8 ounces each). Brown the chicken breasts along with the thighs and remove them from the stew once they reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees, 20 to 30 minutes. The collagen in the wings helps thicken the stew; do not omit or substitute. Since the wings yield only about 1 cup of meat, using their meat is optional. The stew can be prepared through step 3 up to 2 days in advance; bring the stew back to a simmer before proceeding with the recipe.

Stew
6	bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 2 1/2 pounds), trimmed of excess fat (see note)
	table salt and ground black pepper
2	teaspoons vegetable oil
2	small onions , chopped fine (about 1 1/2 cups)
2	medium carrots , peeled and cut into 3/4-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
1	celery rib , medium, chopped fine (about 1/2 cup)
1/4	cup dry sherry
6	cups low-sodium chicken broth
1	teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1	pound chicken wings (see note)
1/4	cup Chopped fresh parsley leaves
Dumplings
2	cups unbleached all-purpose flour (10 ounces)
1/2	teaspoon baking soda
1	teaspoon sugar
1	teaspoon table salt
3/4	cup buttermilk , cold (see note)
4	tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter , melted and cooled about 5 minutes
1	large egg white

INSTRUCTIONS

1. 1. FOR THE STEW Pat chicken thighs dry with paper towels and season with 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add chicken thighs, skin-side down, and cook until skin is crisp and well browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Using tongs, turn chicken pieces and brown on second side, 5 to 7 minutes longer; transfer to large plate. Discard all but 1 teaspoon fat from pot.

2. 2. Add onions, carrots, and celery to now-empty pot; cook, stirring occasionally, until caramelized, 7 to 9 minutes. Stir in sherry, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in broth and thyme. Return chicken thighs, with any accumulated juices, to pot and add chicken wings. Bring to simmer, cover, and cook until thigh meat offers no resistance when poked with tip of paring knife but still clings to bones, 45 to 55 minutes.

3. 3. Remove pot from heat and transfer chicken to cutting board. Allow broth to settle 5 minutes, then skim fat from surface using wide spoon or ladle. When cool enough to handle, remove and discard skin from chicken. Using fingers or fork, pull meat from chicken thighs (and wings, if desired) and cut into 1-inch pieces. Return meat to pot.

4. 4. FOR THE DUMPLINGS Whisk flour, baking soda, sugar, and salt in large bowl. Combine buttermilk and melted butter in medium bowl, stirring until butter forms small clumps; whisk in egg white. Add buttermilk mixture to dry ingredients and stir with rubber spatula until just incorporated and batter pulls away from sides of bowl.

5. 5. Return stew to simmer; stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Using greased tablespoon measure (or #60 portion scoop), scoop level amount of batter and drop over top of stew, spacing about ¼ inch apart (you should have about 24 dumplings). Wrap lid of Dutch oven with clean kitchen towel (keeping towel away from heat source) and cover pot. Simmer gently until dumplings have doubled in size and toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, 13 to 16 minutes. Serve immediately.

TECHNIQUE

No More Broken Sinkers
Here's how we lightened up our dumplings and kept them intact.

ADD AN EGG WHITE
Adding an egg white helps develop light-as-air dumplings that don't disintegrate.

LET LIQUID SIMMER
Waiting to add the dumplings until the broth is simmering sets their bottoms and keeps them whole.

CATCH CONDENSATION
Wrapping the lid with a towel absorbs excess moisture that can turn dumplings soggy.

RECIPE TESTING

Best Parts for Broth

NATURAL THICKENER
The multiple joints in chicken wings contain lots of collagen that converts into gelatin during cooking—a better broth thickener than flour, which masks chicken flavor.

FULL O' FLAVOR
Pound for pound, chicken thighs impart richer flavor to broth than any other part of the bird. Plus, they require far less cooking time than eking the flavor out of a whole bird or carcass.

America’s Test Kitchen is a 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated magazines and is the workday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand how and why they work and arrive at the best version. We also test kitchen equipment and supermarket ingredients in search of brands that offer the best value and performance. You can watch us work by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (www.americastestkitchen.com) on public television.